Have you ever been scrolling through craigslist or at your local thrift store and saw potential in some upholstered chairs, and thought those could be adorable! But...then remembered you've never re-upholstered anything and you know nothing about it,  and that you could never pull that off (and you don't have the money to get them professionally done). Well of course I ignored all that and bought 2 not so pretty chairs... 
When it rains, it's hard to get a lot of painting done, because a lot of my painting takes place outside. So since it was raining on this paticular night, I thought this was a good of time as any to finally tackle these chairs. I started of by tearing off that horrible plastic floral fabric. I have to give some credit to Alex, my hubby. It takes a lot of elbow grease, and a lot of patience and he did a great job. We used pliers to get the staples out, but you can buy staple removers. I read that they work about the same. Be sure to save the fabric and foam/batting, that way you can cut out the patterns with out having to measure and all that fun stuff. Once you get done tearing everything out you should be left with the frame of the chair. This is when you decide if your going to stain it, paint it, or roll with whatever you've got. These chairs were pretty beat up so I decided to paint them. But that's for another blog post, for another time. All chairs are different, so you may have a few more steps, or not so many steps. It all depends on the chair. 
Now, after you have the frame painted, distressed, stained, or whatever you decided on, it's time to go buy some adorable new fabric. This is the fun part! I love shopping, so of course I had to look down every isle of fabric. Ladies, I suggest not taking your husband with you when you do this...he got a little antsy. Make sure you know how many yards you will need before you get there. Or, take the old fabric with you and judge by that. Most the time there's a nice lady there who knows more about it and can help you. I would go ahead and get at least an extra yard in case you make mistakes.  So after I finally decided on a cute fun pattern, I got the lady to cut it, I bought around 5 yards for these two chairs. But, like I said, every chair is different. I had a lot let over, but it will come in handy if I ever need to recover the seat. Here's a picture of the fabric I chose. I love it!
The next step after you pick your fabric is to gather up all the tools/supplies you'll need. Here is everything I used. A sharp pair of scissors, a yard stick, a staple gun, staples, an air compressor (for the staple gun), pliers, piping/trim, a sewing machine (with a zipper foot), thread, hot glue gun, hot glue sticks, and if you can find some, an extra set of hands. Let's go over everything. I used my grandpa's staple gun that runs of an air compressor. I suggest borrowing one from a friend/relative if possible. If not, manual staple guns work too, but may be a little more work. The piping is what you will make trim out of. You will need the sewing machine to sew the matching fabric around the piping for the trim. You can buy pre-made trimming, but it looks more clean and professional if the fabric matches. You may need some help stretching and holding the fabric in place while you staple, that's where the extra set of hands come in. I will go more in detail about that at the end. 
Once you have everything on hand you're ready to cut out your patterns. When you get them all cut out, you may need to steam them with a steamer, iron, or throw them in the dryer to get out any wrinkles left from being on the roll, in the store. This will also help keeping it smooth and tight when you're stapling it. 
Looks like my sister did some crazy moves at dance before she came to help. Please excuse her ripped tights. Lol! After they are all wrinkle free it's time for the staples! I had two parts of the chair I had to upholster. Let's start with the seat. Get your fabric on as straight as possible. Just make sure, if you have a pattern like I did, that the pattern is straight. The actual piece of fabric may be a little off center, but that won't matter! Flip it over keeping it tight and smooth. Fold over the edges and start stapling. I always started in the middle of each side, it was easier keeping it straight and smooth, than if you were working from one side. You will get the feel for it once you start. It's a lot easier that I expected! You will have to work with the corners to get them folded right. Screw the seat back on and this part is done! 
Now for the back of the seat (if you don't have fabric on the back of your chair just skip this part).  This part is a little more complicated, but you can do it if I did! I'm going to split this up in a few different sections since there are extra steps. This chair had fabric showing through on the back, so I cut two identical pieces one for the back and one for the front. The pictures will explain this better if you're confused! First get your back piece, you will be working with it backwards since you will be looking at it from the back of the chair. Get your helper to help you see if the pattern is straight from the back while you hold it from the front. Once it's straight, put your first staple in at the top, in the middle. My chair had a inset in the wood where I was stapling into, so it was pretty easy once I got started. Once you get it stapled all the way around, cut off any excess fabric with your scissors. Try to get as close as possible. Hope the pictures are a little more explanatory! 
Next, put you're foam/batting on top of the back piece. I used the original foam because it was still in good shape. If you are worried about odors from the foam but don't want to buy new foam, follow these steps. 1) Spray with Shout, Lysol or whatever spray cleaner you have on hand. I used Shout, and my foam smells great now! 2) Use your steamer or iron to steam the entire piece of foam. Do this for 5 to 10 minutes. You can actually smell all the stuff coming out of the foam! 3) Let air dry. Now once you have the foam on the back piece of fabric, take your top piece of fabric and lay it over the foam. This is where your extra hands will be needed the most! Once you get the pattern straight, get your helper to hold it tight in place. Staple the top piece on. My staple gun was great, if I stapled over another staple it would bend the staple to miss the exsisting staple from the back piece of fabric. Ok, I'm going to try to not say the word staple again lol.  Once you get it all... you know...stapled, WHOOPS! Cut off any excess fabric like earlier. 
Now for the finishing touches. This was one of the easiest parts to me. I found the piping I used at Hobby Lobby. It was super cheap, and they had a few different sizes to pick from. I picked the medium size. I wanted it to be a little chunky. You will probably find it in the fabric section and they will cut it for you. I got 5 yards and it was just the right amount for one chair. Here is a picture of what it looks like. 
BEFORE you start cutting your fabric for the chairs and getting it all chopped up, go ahead and make your trimming. You will need the entire length of your piece of fabric. I would make a note of this somewhere so you don't forget. I learned it out the hard way. So basically, do this next step before you start any of the previous steps. Spread your piping out at the edge of your fabric. You will need a large open area to be able to spread it out. Fold the edge of the fabric over the piping about half an inch. You will need to leave enough fabric to have a small strip to staple to the chair. Start pinning the fabric around the piping to keep it in place while you're sewing it. The pictures below will explain that better. Lastly, cut off the excess fabric.  The pins will keep it all together. 
Now it's time to break out the sewing machine. If you don't have a sewing machine you can sew it by hand. It will take a lot longer, but it can be done. I used the zipper foot on my sewing machine, it helped to get the needle really close to the piping, so it would be really tight.  Remove your pins as you sew. 
Now that we have the piping sewn up, it's time to staple it on to your chair. Start in the least noticeable place. I started on the bottom of the back of the chair. Start stapling the piping to the chair, keep it as straight as possible. Just go all the way around and then cut it off when you get to your stopping point.
I wanted to put some trim around the bottom of the seat cushion as well, just so it would have a finished look. I took the seat off and just stapled my strip of fabric all the way around the top of the frame that the cushion sits on. Then when I put the seat back on it looked ten times better. 
Next, trim off any strings or fabric that may be showing. You can also go back around and hot glue your piping onto the the cushions just for added security and so your staples won't show. I didn't need to do this step because my piping was really chunky, so it covered everything up for the most part. I hope this wasn't too complicated. If you have any questions feel free to ask. I'm no expert but I would love to help you. If I can do this, I KNOW you can too. I just dove in, and it turned out great. It really was easier than I thought it would be! Also, don't freak out if it's not perfect. Mine certainly wasn't! Nobody's going to come in with a magnifying glass and start critiquing it. Throw a pillow on it, or a small blanket to cover imperfections up, or just embrace 'em. I'd rather have something less than perfect and be able to say I did it myself. :)
 
  So this is my first time to ever write about the process in which I go about painting and distressing furniture. I took a few pictures and I'm going to go through every step. I think if someone wants to try this their selves why should I keep how I do it a secrete. I've actually met someone like that, very weird. But, any who, I'm not going to make a post about every single piece I do, that would get boring and very repetitive, fast. I'll do posts on different techniques, hard to work with pieces, or about sanding. You never know what you'll see! That's the fun part. (Don't be surprised if I throw in my pantry makeover!) Ok, on to the project!

  This is a before picture of the cabinet/accent table I found for a pretty good price at a yard sale. I had to haggle the lady down into my comfort zone, but I knew this thing had great potential! 

  Well, I got started right away because I was super excited about how she was going to turn out. I made a late night run to Lowes, picked out some paint (which I was in love with), bought a couple of new sanding blocks (which I'll talk about later) and I was on my way home. When I got home, I sprayed a few coats of primer after roughing up the top with some medium grit sand paper. After I was through priming I started painting , and painting, and painting. I got about half way through before I literally laid down in the drive way and fell asleep. Seriously! My husband finally woke me up, after 20 minutes and I called it a night. Seriously, he let me sleep in the driveway for 20 minutes without saying anything. Anyway, I woke up early the next morning and got back started, because painting in 107 degree weather is not that fun. Took me a few hours to get her completely through painted. Here she is, perfect, flawless, smooth as a baby's butt. Not for long... :D

The next step is the distressing, which is my favorite part. It's like a stress reliever. I can't explain it! The only things I used on this were a medium sanding block, a fine sanding block, and a utility knife. Basically all you do is rub the medium sanding block on the places you want distressed. Don't do continuous lines all the way around. Do some here and there and just randomly all over. You don't want it to look like you took some sand paper to it, you want it to look like 40 years ago someone ran into it with the vacuum cleaner a lot, or it had been moved around and bumped into things. Make it look like it has naturally been worn. Next, take your fine sanding block and rub along all your distressed places. This smooths them down, so that they don't keep chipping off, and so they won't be jagged. I sometimes use a utility knife and run along the fine edges just so you can see all the beautiful lines and details in the piece of furniture. It really brings out the shapes and curves.  Below is a picture of the sanding blocks and the utility knife!

This is the part that I did with the utility knife. It let me get into all that intricate detail that the sanding blocks would have missed.

After you're completely through distressing the piece, clean it really good. Get all that dust off and out of the nicks and crannies. I use a an old tooth brush most the time to clean the corners and places a rag won't get to. After it's clean you're going to start the glazing/staining process. You'll need mixing glaze, whatever color stain you want to use (I used Dark Walnut made by Rust-Oleum for this project), old rags, an old tooth brush, and mineral spirits to clean up with. If you buy the mixing glaze it will have directions on how much stain to glaze you mix. It's a clear type of stuff, and it doesn't take much stain for it to work. You mix the stain and glaze up, paint it on, wipe it off. I didn't have mixing glaze on hand when I did this project, so I just used stain. I know how to work with it and know how much time I have before it starts to dry. The mixing glaze gives you a lot more time to work with. I don't recommend using just plain old stain to first time distressers, you'll be the only thing distressed after it's over with. But, if you do decide to just use the stain and no glaze, then only work with small sections at a time. Here's a picture of how much I would put on at a time. I actually had to call my husband over to start wiping it off as I took the picture. That's how fast you have to work with stain!

  Now, when you start wiping it off, just worry about the excess. Don't freak out about the nicks and crannies. You want the stain to stay in there. It adds more character and brings out all the detail of the furniture. Here's a picture of the hubby wiping it off, don't stress over it to much, just play with it, if you wipe too much off, put some more on, just have fun and make it yours.  I guess you're probably going to notice my hubby's cute toes, we live in Alabama, shoes are rarely on our feet. 
  
When you get everything wiped down and you like the amount of stain you have on it, let it sit over night, for at least 24 hours. Try not to touch it, it will leave finger prints in the stain (no worries, just rub them back in). Just make sure everything is rubbed in good and there's not big globs of stain hidden some where. After you let it cure for at least 24 hours then you want to apply a clear coat. My favorite is a water base polyurethane made by Rust-Oleum, I usually get the satin sheen. I put at least two coats if not three. After you let the clear coat dry for a few days you're ready to bring it inside (you can bring it inside after its dry, just don't sit anything on it for at least 3 days).
  Before and afters (click to enlarge).
Well there you have it. Hope I explained everything OK. If you have any questions please feel free to contact me. Have a great day, and hope YOU'RE not too distressed after reading that! :)

    Brooke German

    I'm a wife and a mother (to a Yorkie named Rufus). I love to cook, be outside, and of course refinish furniture. Most days I'm covered in paint, but I wouldn't have it any other way!

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